But, as it turns out, creating an Ektar look wasn’t easy for one reason: Classic Chrome isn’t vibrant enough, even with color set to +4. I felt like the more the photo felt like a proper portrait, the more I couldn’t get over how strong the colors were. As such, I’ve kept a roll of Ektar in at least one camera at all times and I’m experimenting to see if this opinion persists or limited to only my first couple pro packs.In conclusion, I’ve really grown to love this film and have kept a constant stock of it since I bought my first pro pack. ‡ Subject shaded from the sun but lighted by a large area of sky. Some people use it extensively for portraits, but the general advice is to use Ektar for everything other than people pictures. The color palette is slightly askew. Who wants a photo or themselves with the saturation turned way up? I hope this helps!Custom white balance could work. I think it is this very quality that makes it such a solid choice for landscapes.Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:I have also recently tried Ektar for the first time and liked it a lot. I’m not sure exactly how you use these recipes with a RAW developer, I suppose it depends on the software of choice. It’s close, but a little off. I’ve shot a few rolls of it in the past, but it’s been probably seven or eight years.On the menu, when you select Auto White Balance, if you arrow to the right, it should bring up the white balance shift menu. Sounds like an amazing trip!I am newbie to Fujifilm having just purchased a XT-3. While I don’t know that I’ll be going through much of it once the weather in Ohio starts going back to grey all the time, I’ll be enjoying it as much as I can while the sun is out. Does this only happen with the 50R?getting closer to the look I guessEktar is ideal for vibrant landscapes or any situation where you want lots of contrast and saturated colors. Is it just Astia? Also, I did not use the faux grain effect for this recipe. I think, with Gold, it has a split-tone look, and so I haven’t had success. With this question in mind I decided to take the film for a spin, and in a nutshell the film does live up to the claim in most conditions, with impressively fine grains even at 100% zoom-in. THANKS.Perhaps try Astia. But one of your recipes that I would love to adapt I couldn’t until now given X-E1 doesn’t have classic chrome and that’s Kodachrome II, any chance to achieve the look with any of the simulations available within X-E1?Sorry, my error: I asked Fuji – some of those settings are deep in the Image Quality menus. Once is set to “Auto”, I can’t seem to get to the screen to set to Red or Blue. Thanks,I don’t understand how the changes in Color are implemented in Fuji RAW application, is it the one that comes up with a color wheel? In fact, when Kodak discontinued Ektachrome 100VS, they recommended Ektar 100 as the closest film.Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:I appreciate your kind words and feedback! The light greens were a bit too quick to have a yellow-ish tint and the darker greens didn’t have the same “pop” as everything else. * Use f/5.6 for backlit close-up subjects. That said, I don’t dislike this film for portraits so long as its an environmental portrait. In the fall of 2018 I headed to Arizona for the second time and intended to see the Grand Canyon for the first time (btw, it was as grand as the name implies. Maybe experiment with the settings until you find the right combination that gives you the results you want.Let me know what they say, in case someone else encounters the same issue. When Fuji X Weekly reader Jackie asked if I could make a film simulation recipe that mimics the look of Kodak Ektar 100 film, I thought that it would be a simple task. I hope you enjoy the recipe!Example photos, all straight-out-of-camera JPEGs captured using my Kodak Ektar 100 Film Simulation recipe: Great series! It’s not usually one’s first choice for portrait photography because skin tones can be off. I felt like the closer the green got to blue, the more I liked it. Thanks for the replyBefore I get ahead of myself too much, let’s roll things back a little. I think you could use weak grain if the ISO is 800 or less, but once you get to ISO 1600 and higher the digital noise acts like a convincing weak grain, and adding more grain on top of it is too much.
Any help would be appreciated.I have never heard of that issue. To see Kodak Ektar exposure tested along side 10 other film stocks, follow this link.To see my first (substantial) attempt at shooting Ektar while in Banff, follow this link.. I did it purely as an experiment and I suspect I’ll try it again at 200ASA and update.Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.As for overexposing, I don’t much care for what happens to the coloring but given that I can rectify that in post, I am beyond surprised with this film. And like many of my favorite things, it has a bad reputation. I hope it’s a simple solution.I adapted your recipes to my X-E1 to great results, including this one, it gives great worm tones in occasions where this stand out the scene.