Scoop the yarn with the groove of your hook and pull it through the stitch.
OR if you’re reading a UK pattern, you’ll be looking for ‘htr’ as the abbreviation for ‘half-treble crochet’.It’s not too bad if you’ve only used one colour – which, as a beginner, I suggest you doing to start with; but any more than that and you end up with tails of yarn all over your work that you need to hide somehow…They are exactly the same stitch, just different names…4. Feel free to use one or two photos, provided that a link back to my original post is included. These then alternate, so once you get the hang of recognising individual stitches in a row you can quite quickly tell how many rows you have.If the pattern mentions ‘half-double crochet’ then you know it’s using US terms because it is half of a double crochet stitch.ch2, turn, 1hdc in first st, 1hdc in each st (10hdc)The half-double crochet is kind of a hybrid between a single crochet and a double crochet: you yarn over before inserting your hook into the stitch (like a double crochet) – but when you finish off the stitch, you yarn over and pull through all three loops on your hook (like a single crochet).2. This will be much more time consuming at first as you’ll be stopping at the end of each row to add the row marker; but, until you’re confident counting rows by recognising the front and back of stitches, this will be much easier for you in the short term.3. The yarn in between a valley and a line, or in between a line and a valley, is one row.However, like single crochet stitches, counting the rows can be a bit trickier…1.
Crochet one chain and cut the yarn, leaving a 10cm / 4″ ‘tail’3. The half double crochet stitch is also known as the half treble crochet. Then loop the yarn around your hook.Well done, another technique mastered! *high five*Working into a foundation chain: Start with the hook in your right hand and the foundation chain in your left.Subscribe to our newsletter for updates and special offers.When you're working across a row that's already been crocheted:A taller version of the single crochet, half-double crochet adds more height and creates a little bit more open fabric.Half-double crochet is between single and double crochet. ‘Yarn over’ and pull the yarn back through the chain – you will now have three loops on your hookIn each of these how-to stitch posts I’m going to reiterate this point as it took me ages to figure out on my own: when you look at the top of your work, you’ll notice a line of V’s. Each of these V’s is a stitch. This stitch can be used for everything from scarves and sweaters, hats and mittens, to housewares.Insert your crochet hook into the middle of the third stitch from the hook.Loop the yarn around your hook.Loop the yarn around the hook again and pull the yarn through all three loops on your hook. **PLEASE NOTE: I prefer to use US terminology, so from here on I’ll be referring to this stitch as the ‘half-double crochet’** The stitch. Depending on the thickness of your yarn, thread your yarn through the eye of a size 13 tapestry needle (if it’s really chunky yarn) or through the eye of a size 20 tapestry needle (if it’s a standard thickness)2. You can choose to do this as you go, or all at the very end.ch12, 1hdc in third ch from hook, 1hdc in each ch (10hdc)3. Repeat into the next stitch to continue working in half double crochet stitch.Loop the yarn around the hook again and pull the yarn through all three loops on your hook. It’s the first stitch I ever learned and it’s the stitch I usually use when making beanies: it’s not too tight, not too loose, creates a nice and stretchy fabric – *perfect* for beanies!Or if it’s easier for you to just look out for the lines, then the yarn in between two lines is two rows.3.
Firmly pull the needle and yarn through, but don’t pull it so tight that your crochet starts to bunch – make sure there’s a little bit of slack, especially in beanies so that the material can still stretch)2. Repeat steps 2 to 5 into the next stitch to continue working in half double crochet stitch.Move the hook under and then over the yarn to loop the yarn around it.
At the end of the current row create two chain stitches to ‘raise the yarn’, so to speak, so that your hook is at the right height to crochet a half-double crochet stitch in the new rowThis is how I sew in the ends on most of my crochet items, and I haven’t had any ‘escape’ or pop out *yet*:‘Working in rows’ means that you’re turning your work at the end of each row (because you eventually run out of stitches to work into) and working into the top of the stitches back along the previous row.If you’re reading a US pattern, you’ll be looking for ‘hdc’ as the abbreviation for ‘half-double crochet’.
In this DROPS video we show how you can crochet a half double crochet (hdc) US / half treble crochet (dtr) UK. At this point, you can repeat steps 4 and 5 again to be extra sure that the tail won’t come out – or you can cut the remaining tail close to your crochet item, and you’re done!Make sure you pin this tutorial for later, when your next crochet pattern calls for the half-double crochet stitch (US) / half-treble crochet stitch (UK)…To create the half-double crochet stitch when working into a chain, just follow these simple steps:Mine was when I first came across these differences – but I was learning on my own so I had no idea what was going on!